ponedjeljak, 30. studenoga 2015.

The Time !


Last week I missed 1 day in school to go climbing in new sector in Istria called Rock n Roč.
When I first went there, there were couple of projects and one caught my eye. For my dad it was the ugliest one, but for me the opposite. Short, bouldery overhang with hard power moves which are pretty attractive. At first I didn't even know if it's possible for me because I couldn't visualize moves at all. After projecting it for 2-3 days I got all moves and was ready to send it.
At the end there is one move where I need to let my legs go in the air, and usually I was falling there because I was too pumped to hold only on arms.

When we got there everything was covered in fog and I thought conditions won't be good for climbing, but it turned out it was good day.
I fell few times on move with legs in the air, but in the last try in day I sticked everything and sent my hardest FA! I wasn't sure how to grade it, but it felt hard even though I'm in really good form for such bouldery routes so I graded it as 8B+. It seems I didn't miss as Jakob Schubert sent it few days after me and said it's hard and grade can't be lower, and that maybe it could be 8c.
I named it ''The Time'' because under the route there is some old clock around starting tufas.
I'm really proud I did FA in this route. I think it is an amazing route.

Thanks Luka Tambaca for these awesome photos :)



srijeda, 18. studenoga 2015.

Chironico 2015 2nd time



Boom!
I spent 9 days in Cresciano and Chironico with happy crew from Zagreb and Split : Luka Tambača, Karlo Čubrić, Ivan Pevec, Nikola Kramarić and Luka trumbić.



These were 9 days of perfect weather, much fun and a lot of hard boulders.
It was such nice mental rest and relaxation. Nature was beautiful, no snow yet and everything was in autumn colours. We had awesome house high on the hill and beautiful view.  I would easily stay there for a month or two without a problem.

 After first day of climbing in Chironico I knew I'm stronger than last time. I did pretty easily Souvenir 8a/a+ with which I struggled to do any moves earlier this year. I added Komilator 7C flash and cool jump start 7C Vanillasky.
Next day we went to Cresciano, it was my first true time bouldering there. I did 7C La grotte des soupirs and tried some 8a's.

Now when I got feeling for granite,I took rest on 3rd day in order to prepare for my main target of the trip. It was Einfisch Kleinfisch 8b in Chironico which I had unfinished business with from earlier trip this year.
I was really syked for this one and wanted to do it before my fingertips get bloody because this boulder is damaging skin pretty fast. At first it went okay, but I wasn't sure if I will be able to do it, and then suddenly I came up with some changes in beta which fit me better. After some tries with new beta, I managed to climb it. Woohoo! With it I have highest boulder grade climbed in Croatia, together with Boris Zokić. Now I could dedicate to other boulders without having to spare skin.

Until the end of the trip I sent 8a+ Kirk Windstein (Cresciano), Miss schweiz 8a (Chironico), Electric ant squat start 8a+ (Chironico) and a lot of 7C's and 7B's.
As a most beautiful boulder I did on the trip I have to point out Kirk Windstein, I really enjoyed it.

I wasn't the only one to raise personal record this trip though, Pevec did his first 8A+ Kirk Windstein, Karlo his first 7B+ Dr. med dent and Nikola 8a/a+ Souvenir

On our way home, we agreed this trip was sooo good and started forging plans for our next trip :)
 



Electric ant squat 8A+

La grotte des soupirs 7C

Einfisch Kleinfisch 8b
Village on top of the hill where we chilled on rest days

I like this one :D


Kirk Windstein 8A+
 All these photos are from Luka Tambača.
Other pics of the trip you can find on: http://lukatambaca.com/ticino15


Summary of recent events


I didn't write for some time now. Mostly forgot or didn't have time to write, so I'll put short summary of what happened since last post.


Firstly, there was European youth cup in Langenfeld where I managed to get into my first boulder finals and finished 5th.
Next, on European youth championship in L'Argentiere I got into finals and finished 5th again. This made me 4th overall in European youth cup. These 2 finals were sign of my big improvement from last year where I was mostly around 12. place.
I was on my first senior's boulder competition, World cup in Munich where I finished 63. out of 121 competitor.
At the end, I became national senior champion in boulder, lead and speed!


This year is 25 years from first croatian 8a, Cocomo in Costiera, climbed by my dad. At that time climbing 8a was a real deal. For the anniversary I went there with him as I never actually tried that route before. I was surprised how bouldery and short route my dad chose for first 8a, because now he likes only endurance and long routes. I sent it on 2nd go, and sighted one other 8a there.

Dad and me in Cocomo (pic was taken on same day)