tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7241654764008928332024-02-02T16:35:07.793-08:00Borna Čujić climbing blogBorna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-92197488706609852232016-11-30T05:49:00.001-08:002023-10-07T08:37:07.952-07:00Peak of the career - Youth World ChampionIn November 2016., I reached the pinnacle of my climbing career when I became <b>World Youth Champion</b> in Bouldering, at the world championship that took place in Guangzhou, China.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyPOpZjyul4sCPNpQUi8M7mjTAKZz1nYcg6Kv_HMmlrzYYBf76FXJkGQrU0w5Qfq-Q0j7pDuUMHO7Z0hWFb5oPfLcS0jIkly7DXLvnni5xE7jatC-3p6Pn8mRGkkGUPnmNUk09_v-EBH-SZ8RlRnlAdRejBl3eDoFMHgtbQEh_8TPsQyI5sWQqFfr3bQ/s6000/WYChamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="405" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyPOpZjyul4sCPNpQUi8M7mjTAKZz1nYcg6Kv_HMmlrzYYBf76FXJkGQrU0w5Qfq-Q0j7pDuUMHO7Z0hWFb5oPfLcS0jIkly7DXLvnni5xE7jatC-3p6Pn8mRGkkGUPnmNUk09_v-EBH-SZ8RlRnlAdRejBl3eDoFMHgtbQEh_8TPsQyI5sWQqFfr3bQ/w610-h405/WYChamp.jpg" width="610" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-16521205765026047052016-10-14T11:48:00.000-07:002016-10-14T11:54:27.164-07:00Quo Vadis, rare repeat!<br />
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There is one crag really close to my house, like 15 min away, which I haven't visited often.<br />
But there is one harder route, Quo Vadis 8b/b+. It is really short (4 bolts) and powerful bouldery route. It has some hard crimping and clipping, and ends with nice dynamic move to good sloper.<br />
I tried it before a year or two, and couldn't really hold those small crimps good enough. But now it is just perfect for my current bouldery shape.<br />
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So I finally caught some time yesterday and decided to go give it a try.<br />
I entered to figure out beta, and after I went down I wasn't even sure if I will be able to do it the way I imagined, because I didn't put much effort to finding proper foot position. In the meantime it got really cold, but at least friction was wonderful!<br />
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So I went for a try, and at one moment just let my legs swing while holding 2 small crimps, and it turned out to be viable beta for me! I fell a bit after because I didn't know where to clip from.<br />
Then, next try, I just walked through it with that new fun beta. That was actually only 3rd repeat of this route! <br />
It was set up by Marko Rožman in 2001, and repeated once more in 2003.<br />
Now, 13 years later I added another repeat.<br />
Sweet achievement :)<br />
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pics are from Luka Tambača<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">leg swing, I like it!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">last hard move</td></tr>
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-60047368403754232052016-09-12T07:45:00.000-07:002016-09-12T08:29:21.079-07:00Jurgovo and Angry birds<h3>
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I wanted to visit boulder spot Jurgovo in Slovenia so Karlo and me invited some climbers from Zagreb, and I got surprised when we managed to gather 9 people to go there this weekend. My goal was to try and do <i><b>Angry birds</b></i> for which I heard lot of praises.</div>
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Jurgovo is small but offers some good boulders. </div>
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First we went on <i>Mona Liza</i> block where I did <i><b>Čreva na plot</b></i> <b>7B </b>which at first didn't seem really nice, but it turned out to be quite interesting and fine boulder, but a bit hard for it's grade. I also did classic <i><b>Mona Liza</b></i> <b>7B+ </b>there.</div>
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After that I did <b><i>Johnny Cash</i> 7B</b> and very nice dyno <b><i>Explosion time</i></b> <b>7B</b>.</div>
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I entered Reduktor 7C+ and Le belanca 8A which are both quite highbally so I didn't dare trying them with 3 small pads we had there.</div>
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At the end of the day on our way down we all went to <b><i>Angry birds</i> 7C+ </b>so I can try it with enough crashpads. It is a slab leading into technical jump on the top edge of the boulder. I sent it after some jumping, and I must say this is one of the best boulders I climbed!</div>
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Real diamond.</div>
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Here's a short video of Angry birds, thanks Matija Baotić for filming and montage </div>
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Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-40134584881871217342016-08-13T09:09:00.001-07:002016-09-02T06:26:41.818-07:00Summer full of competitions<br />
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It's been quite some time since last post, and in the meantime I was on a lot of competitions. In fact, most of this season is over for me, only what's left is World youth championship in China in November and maybe WC Paris next month.<br />
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So big part of summer I spent around on competitions. I'd go to competition, return home for few days and then head for another one. I really like competitions, but in the end it left me quite tired now.<br />
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Oh, and I enrolled on college, University of Business and Economics in Zagreb :) <br />
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<h3>
EYC Soure</h3>
First competition was in Portugal, which I was happy to visit as I was never there before. It was in May, and it was good to see where im standing at the moment after all the trainings. I did get into finals, but I didn't do well there and ended 7th. I was happy with finals for first competition though.<br />
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<h3>
WC Innsbruck</h3>
Next stop in May was Innsbruck, with whole croatian senior team going there. I absolutely love when we all go, it is always great fun and good mood when we are together.<br />
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Boulders for my group were quite easy, which surprised me. I did 3 tops, and could easily have 4, but not even 5 was enough to get into finals, small number of tries was crucial. I ended in the middle, 63rd, which I was satisfied with, knowing I could do better easily. After the comp we went to Maltatal 1 day for bouldering, and I was reallyyyy close to do <i>Wrestling with an aligator</i> 8B, but rain started after 20 min of trying so we had to go. I'm just waiting to come back and do it.<br />
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EYC Graz</h3>
Graz was in the middle of June, and I had pretty high expectiations for this competition, as we trained in that gym alot and I knew almost all holds, which is always good. I started good, but there was one weird plate with top in the level of the feet which I just couldn't figure out how to do, so this time I ended outside the finals.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one I couldnt top</td></tr>
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<h3>
EYC Warsaw</h3>
Start of July, and its turn for Poland. I was excited to go there as it's new place for me. I went there with coach Lisica, and we had really nice experience in Warsaw. We had no car so we used public transport and we've seen a lot of the city, which I really like.<br />
In the gym it was quite hot, luckily I'm used to it as it's the same in my home gym in the summer. Here it was interesting, 20 minutes before the end, there were 2 boulder in which I both did 3 tries already, everytime with different beta so I didn't know which one to use in next attempt. So I chose one for each problem, and managed to do them both in next try which put me into finals.<br />
In the finals I slipped from 1 top, and placed 6th.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warsaw is beautiful city</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">from the finals</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">handling the beta</td></tr>
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<h3>
European university games</h3>
Now this was amazing experience! 5 of us from University of Zagreb were stationed with all other athletes in ''competition village'' and it was so much fun. Competition lasted for 3 days, with boulder, lead and speed. Fun thing is that on the day of bouldering competition I also had to sign up for university. So I woke up early, and went to sign up which was at 9.00, finished with it around 11.00 and then headed to competition which started at 13.30. I arrived to competition as freshman of Economics. :D<br />
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I had no idea how strong the competition will be, and I was surprised when I saw some of the well-known faces, such as Dmitry Sharafutdinov. It was easy to get into finals, but the finals were sooo exciting and close. I did my best, managing to secure podium on the very last boulder, finishing 3rd! Only 1 attempt short of Dmitry who was 2nd, while Slovenian Zupan was first. As it was hot and lasted quite long, I ended up with pretty bad skin for next part of competition.<br />
Next day, lead and speed. As I didn't train lead at all I wasn't surprised to end up withouth the finals, I think I was 14th. The problem was also that I had almost no skin on fingertips so I couldnt do more than 5 minutes of warmup on wall :(<br />
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And then speed, in which I decided to perfom despite my trainer telling me not to. But good thing that I did!<br />
I had to tape almost all my fingertips, but it didn't matter that much in speed. I was surprised how I was decreasing my time with each run, which led me to another 3rd place in the end!<br />
Unluckily, I missed taster in the battle for 2nd place, but that came back when I managed to win in battle for 3rd against Russian who had fastest time of the competition, as he slipped. That speed was really a blast! When everything finished I was so broken, no skin, everything hurt me, but it was all worth it.<br />
I didn't even think I will be able to compete for the podium, but ended with 2 medals. Great time here, looking forward to climbing on next games :)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zagreb university team </td></tr>
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<h3>
EYC Argentierre</h3>
After University games, I came home, had 2 hours to pack up , went to sleep, and in the morning I was already heading for France. I only hoped my skin will be back normal for this comp, and it was, but I could feel fatigue in muscles which was result of giving my best on University games. I had really bad start, got a bit nervous, and then rain stopped the competition. I relaxed in the meantime, and when we continued I was doing great. Sadly, I was 1 try short of the finals, finishing 11th.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGod2k6CajelewJN1IjHCb8JMD4EZNZinPrwN_Y54gQMx7E85rUCgy3dB7iq9qwiMp5De7Ae_aqtARRFOtXBjWpUGljKtltNCPHzDhHFLhXX4GXLbeWHDa6fGOFJ8aTMCONdwtepcOkMY/s1600/arg11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGod2k6CajelewJN1IjHCb8JMD4EZNZinPrwN_Y54gQMx7E85rUCgy3dB7iq9qwiMp5De7Ae_aqtARRFOtXBjWpUGljKtltNCPHzDhHFLhXX4GXLbeWHDa6fGOFJ8aTMCONdwtepcOkMY/s400/arg11.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">junior team</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
EYCH Langenfeld</h3>
Came home for 2 days, and went to my last european youth competition. Familiar place, was here 2 times already and last year I did really good so I expected something similiar. But, boulders were really hard and I was climbing so strange, I don't even know what happened. I was only 30th, which left me disappointed, especially as it was my last such competition and I wanted to remember it as good one. Maybe I fell out of shape a bit, as my home gym is closed during summer so I had to patch my trainings in different ways. Now it's good thing there is some time before next competition, to calm down and get back in shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2mg5QDZ2ABgXKiIqoR3WZlxjhUFTXXJUBGqHGRkb3lnFHSn9zfmUgGS9fPw-bopLfawr9kevWq_1ZD5hIJe_jOTmS3k1-sueHlTqFkX9-5XUk_FOjCMtQy5N-kgyCmmz_Y16oKyy-O4/s1600/lan1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2mg5QDZ2ABgXKiIqoR3WZlxjhUFTXXJUBGqHGRkb3lnFHSn9zfmUgGS9fPw-bopLfawr9kevWq_1ZD5hIJe_jOTmS3k1-sueHlTqFkX9-5XUk_FOjCMtQy5N-kgyCmmz_Y16oKyy-O4/s400/lan1.jpg" width="253" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcS58uDtN4mVZr-hR5Z30NWos1nJo6sxCkqX29jYMxt1hTfs1GxD-Y3jE7rAWnq7SCxlTSoEg6lRUzXKyFQgzAjwPpzsX2Gv8ZPLVc_mmOp1T2yVR50lC-hT1kFzfLQIgA31R-O8N0pk/s1600/lann2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcS58uDtN4mVZr-hR5Z30NWos1nJo6sxCkqX29jYMxt1hTfs1GxD-Y3jE7rAWnq7SCxlTSoEg6lRUzXKyFQgzAjwPpzsX2Gv8ZPLVc_mmOp1T2yVR50lC-hT1kFzfLQIgA31R-O8N0pk/s400/lann2.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
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After competition I went with my familty to Zillertal where I had chance to boulder for 1 day only, as it started raining afterwards.<br />
It was cool day tho, I didn't climb quite some time on granite and I was happy to feel it again.<br />
I did 7B+, 7B+ on flash, 7C and 7C+/8A.<br />
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Soon the gym will open, and I'll be back to hardcore trainings again,<br />
and I hope I'll be able to go on few boulder trips also<br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-58328392237365315072016-03-30T07:54:00.000-07:002016-04-07T04:35:11.653-07:00Another lead 8c and bouldering in Swiss<br />
<b>2 Weeks ago I was in Mišja peč after quite long time</b>, and as I didn't have any project there to climb I went to try <i>Talk is cheap!</i> 8c. Slovenian youth team was climbing it and route seemed quite hard, I wasn't sure if I would be able to do the moves at all. They showed me beta and I was surprised how fast I did everything, in first try of the route I got all the moves. Route is hard first 4 bolts, then big rest and easier to the top, which I like. I did few tries in it that day but didn't send it.<br />
When I returned few days later I did it in my first try of the day, all together in 5 tries! I didn't expect to do 8c that fast. Same day I sent <i>Missing link</i> 8b+ which I tried last year and didn't climb it for some time now. That is my best score for now - 8b+ and 8c in a day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOfHibWT6kDqw51doqEPkkx_YJKZEXQHmpndQPqlCHVYON_WEedAxV5VYft4JvAqAhO_RMRlXyO7ox8Li4ZbehrP0USI34Cyn8ECdv2v9CbJyrUAuIsyIbsXgt1BRYsHJFLbnW88zCTI/s1600/Talk+is+cheap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOfHibWT6kDqw51doqEPkkx_YJKZEXQHmpndQPqlCHVYON_WEedAxV5VYft4JvAqAhO_RMRlXyO7ox8Li4ZbehrP0USI34Cyn8ECdv2v9CbJyrUAuIsyIbsXgt1BRYsHJFLbnW88zCTI/s400/Talk+is+cheap.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Talk is cheap!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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This is now my 3rd 8c, because after doing this route I had finally something to compare <i>The Time </i>to, which I FA'd and now I think it is also 8c. They are both similiar in the way that they have short hard sequence, and both fit me well. Still, I'm waiting for some repeats on <i>The Time</i> to confirm the grade.<br />
2 days after and I was already on the way to Cresciano and Chironico to do some bouldering!<br />
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<h4>
Chironico and Cresciano 2016.</h4>
This time Split (Nikola Kramarić and Luka Kivela) and Zagreb ( Karlo Čubrić and me) teamed up for the trip. We had 5 bouldering days.<br />
As always when going bouldering, I was happy to feel the granite and send some classics!<br />
We started searching accomodation too late, and as a result we didn't have comfy stay as before. Rooms didn't have kitchen and dishes, but we quickly adapted and bought paper plates, forks and knives and cooked on gas. It was cool to find solutions for what we needed. Also I was happy that my bad Deutsch finally served me in communication, I managed to ask : Ist this Preis nur fur Schlaffen oder mit Fruhstuck? :D<br />
Weather was kind of too warm, we expected much colder weather. Still, climbing was on the level and I'm happy with my sends.<br />
I took new Ocun Oxi climbing shoes with me to try them, and they showed extremely good on boulders so I climbed whole trip in them.<br />
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First day Chironico, started off with 7B+ flash and then sending roof beast <i>Willenberg dach</i> 8A. A roof with big holds, but it needs quite some power. For the end of the day went to flash Vitruvian man 7C, but I accidentally did it with chipped hold for foot, so I went for 2nd go.<br />
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Second day we went to Cresciano and headed for <i>La Boule</i> 8A, a real classic. There I flashed <i>La boulette</i> 7B which is really nice, and started trying La Boule. It seemed quite hard, a lot of tension and small crimps which hurt for skin. But I liked it very much. After trying the moves I went for the try, I didn't expect to climb it in that try as I barely managed to pull off moves alone, but in a big fight I managed to do it. I was sooo happy, my dearest send ever.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7fB5JazfVtwIQAjT3WkLRryj9z_VsHIrF8t9hG08XEuaRirSbD6ZvIt5DE9A7sgr_z-wOJtr5zLyMjoFoI0JYjkRFhIit4qnCFkAei09eam0K73s6CIda3CLvqF49NT8FbIJVKu1QTc/s1600/la+boule.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Borna Čujić" border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7fB5JazfVtwIQAjT3WkLRryj9z_VsHIrF8t9hG08XEuaRirSbD6ZvIt5DE9A7sgr_z-wOJtr5zLyMjoFoI0JYjkRFhIit4qnCFkAei09eam0K73s6CIda3CLvqF49NT8FbIJVKu1QTc/s640/la+boule.jpeg" title="La boule 8A" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La boule 8A</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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On 3rd day I took rest to prepare for last 3 days.<br />
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Fourth day we were shortly in Cresciano where I did <i>XP</i> 7C, and then to Chironico where I finally did <i>Worthless everything</i> 7C+ thanks to the new beta from Nikola. This boulder I was trying last 2 trips and couldn't do it. After it I also did <i>Tricky</i> 8A, which now seemed pretty easy with right beta.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Wx434Rfv5NSViMqczoUqLyVcRuwJHoPZKG0bN5B6KXJ8833AZEjEs4wZkPdCxI6p9EKO-blX0dIaRj2h5GW9_jhYOVynHS0VWfmvrxCSJu5jl26HV4sHTyEsI4Y-uHZFEfPpcjrYKZg/s1600/XP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Ocun oxi" border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Wx434Rfv5NSViMqczoUqLyVcRuwJHoPZKG0bN5B6KXJ8833AZEjEs4wZkPdCxI6p9EKO-blX0dIaRj2h5GW9_jhYOVynHS0VWfmvrxCSJu5jl26HV4sHTyEsI4Y-uHZFEfPpcjrYKZg/s640/XP.jpg" title="XP 7C and new Ocun Oxi" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">XP 7C and new Ocun Oxi</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Day 5 going to new sector in Chironico where I flashed <i>The pocket problem</i> 7C+ , which is my hardest flash for now. Congratulations to Karlo who also did it and pushed his limit!<br />
A long beauty <i>Second life</i> 8A+ caught my eye and I went to try it. It looks so good, alone on the block, and has some more than 15 moves. Sadly, I fell few times at the end because it just squeezed power from my arms. This will probably be first thing to send next time. Next I wanted to try<i> Boogalaga</i> 8B, but I still wasn't strong enough for it. :(<br />
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Last day was real rampage for me. First I did <i>Serre moi fort</i> 8A which I like really much, so good moves. Shortly after it I sent <i>Le vent nous</i> portera 8A, reachy dynamic line with move which takes away feet quite high, exciting to climb. Then I flashed <i>The real shield </i>7C, one hard move for start then easy to the top. Next I flashed <i>Brechstange </i>7C, which has 2 moves on crimps. I felt so solid in it. After it, when night already fell and we climbed with 2 headlamps, I did Salut a toit 7C+ on second go.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vgno1yQpC5ohmx4qYpOd8G6EKcTQw2ar1F1nbs3QhKzIC6tvJ8O5lNLKU5QCCzY5WUJfKgzAk3NdeQo-SCuxcQr7npY0SuMUsRxVILkSjz68JKCnD741N5WW_whSTa9hrfYY4cwFE0s/s1600/vent+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vgno1yQpC5ohmx4qYpOd8G6EKcTQw2ar1F1nbs3QhKzIC6tvJ8O5lNLKU5QCCzY5WUJfKgzAk3NdeQo-SCuxcQr7npY0SuMUsRxVILkSjz68JKCnD741N5WW_whSTa9hrfYY4cwFE0s/s400/vent+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le vent nous portera 8A</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-N06D7k9U_u3sJfd7c-HK6-zEZ35I_ds-zTah8d30WRkPnAh3TK9Jf9qbMnAK_VQGG8VROZtATdzGniuJeWrpSb0S9BMga9aAhuDLLJoWpZuMeRb0rNoLzQ6-00qA1EQ1gpINxlL94Wk/s1600/vent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-N06D7k9U_u3sJfd7c-HK6-zEZ35I_ds-zTah8d30WRkPnAh3TK9Jf9qbMnAK_VQGG8VROZtATdzGniuJeWrpSb0S9BMga9aAhuDLLJoWpZuMeRb0rNoLzQ6-00qA1EQ1gpINxlL94Wk/s640/vent.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Almost all of the routes I did are real classics and amazing lines. I could climb them over and over again. I'm satisfied with my score, 5 8A's in 5 days and enough 7C's, mostly on flash.<br />
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Now training for competitions, and perhaps another boulder trip if I will have time. <br />
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All the boulders I did in those 5 days :<br />
7B+ Party boosten (flash)<br />
8A Willenberg dach<br />
7C Vitruvian man<br />
8A La boule<br />
7B La boulette (flash)<br />
7B+ Voci dalla cantina (flash)<br />
7C XP <br />
7C+ Worthless everything<br />
8A Tricky<br />
7C+ The pocket problem (flash)<br />
8A Serre moi fort<br />
8A Le vent nous portera<br />
7C The real shield (flash)<br />
7C Brechstange (flash)<br />
7C+ Salut a toit<br />
<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-11356830485542533742015-12-31T11:17:00.000-08:002015-12-31T11:17:29.291-08:00Climbing in Greece<br />Beginning of winter holidays I spent with my family in Greece for 10 days. I did a lot of sightseeing of archeological monuments which quite impressed me. But most importantly,I was climbing on some of the best crags around Athens and on Peloponnese. Most of them have medium long routes of around 25-30 metres with many tufas, so endurance is a must have.<br />
I was climbing in a more relaxed fashion, not going for some hard sends with many tries, so I was mostly sighting. I wanted to get some endurance so I can send something hard in Croatia when I get back.<br />
Sectors are really good for climbing and sighting if you like tufas. Since I'm not fond of tufas, on some sectors I went to try some of more bouldery and less climbed routes with less tufas which turned out to be awesome. For example my favorite route which I climbed this trip, <i>What 8b</i>, which has maybe 3-4 ascents for now. I also climbed <i>Sugar loaf </i>which was put on 8b? in guidebook and is basically a 5 move boulder after really easy climb, but nevertheless it was cool for me as I'm in boulder shape. Since I couldn't get any data if it was climbed before it could also be a FA.<br />
Beside this, I sighted <i>Delirio 8a</i> on sector Chaos that is actually a big sinkhole in the ground,<br />
sighted 1 7c+, 7c and bunch of 7b+'s and easier.<br />
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This year was pretty successful for me both on rock where I did many sends to remember, and on competitions where I greatly improved in comparison to last year.<br />
Next year is my last in juniors so I hope I will do really great on competitions, and I also want to push my lead grade limit.<br />
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Happy New year everyone, have a great year full of good health, great climbing and unforgettable moments !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeS73liOhf6qiBa4VrhE3XX2Z1cpwP-xWUA5NL9RPb3iaHsfrPDUMt8X7QsLD3aVBHuPNwqzGXCNOa-ud-v69Dennll8rxNWiJs2ZzPYJHQAzWBq0w_fVQ_9x7qOJWNw66r-t9wwmaeM/s1600/1016003_1186748224686286_7328137040581042324_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="479" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeS73liOhf6qiBa4VrhE3XX2Z1cpwP-xWUA5NL9RPb3iaHsfrPDUMt8X7QsLD3aVBHuPNwqzGXCNOa-ud-v69Dennll8rxNWiJs2ZzPYJHQAzWBq0w_fVQ_9x7qOJWNw66r-t9wwmaeM/s640/1016003_1186748224686286_7328137040581042324_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chaos, sick looking sector</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9g0pzebJL9U0Zv7mw9GPXXvOd_s8dVm1sXcT58SvYblqjr6XWkkuXKnsZfZCASG0VSyOFkQCQKsI4pdjJZtq7qk2sLPefQx9n5YsHAB0ccE0UqQCwk2h8bpSf_f-9a_i9jNzCKIaM9VU/s1600/8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9g0pzebJL9U0Zv7mw9GPXXvOd_s8dVm1sXcT58SvYblqjr6XWkkuXKnsZfZCASG0VSyOFkQCQKsI4pdjJZtq7qk2sLPefQx9n5YsHAB0ccE0UqQCwk2h8bpSf_f-9a_i9jNzCKIaM9VU/s640/8b.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">8b What</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpF3ZFCZ1nheA1xp_I7AktvcTuTiXh3W4hY-BFjzotFz7vRM4OG6Ymnb1sG6gGsRtLs1nYFCHl4DvCvA2nBhh-P96kWljtHd4dj3rzcPxbvmzxfOB5vdNjciVuZ5rG9YEyQAvRT-mLw0U/s1600/20151222_131247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpF3ZFCZ1nheA1xp_I7AktvcTuTiXh3W4hY-BFjzotFz7vRM4OG6Ymnb1sG6gGsRtLs1nYFCHl4DvCvA2nBhh-P96kWljtHd4dj3rzcPxbvmzxfOB5vdNjciVuZ5rG9YEyQAvRT-mLw0U/s640/20151222_131247.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Athen's acropola</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByPXGloK48VLZEahmvc__7aNagk559DPtAtpu6qi_BfSytb7sLLZgrXoz3joyman_J194v_Os5yCLOcTxS14Np4Rge_NKLzqcyKIhFLsOSxk63LFTShuUpSSZ4Z8TBra5lnif-mXGt_M/s1600/seidon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByPXGloK48VLZEahmvc__7aNagk559DPtAtpu6qi_BfSytb7sLLZgrXoz3joyman_J194v_Os5yCLOcTxS14Np4Rge_NKLzqcyKIhFLsOSxk63LFTShuUpSSZ4Z8TBra5lnif-mXGt_M/s640/seidon.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poseidon's temple</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmQEit7f8kvF-Cay0CrR07z7NiJeS8SaTy3ObO9cU9KYMQlQ0mZhT64AYV7bk-5YlRpi3ogrsmTgfxbEgSOKN68s54wOlHwsokYRBoePo7vwSYQ0B_PXHIHSvZURzs5rI-gLa_LMRiXE/s1600/20151223_170743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmQEit7f8kvF-Cay0CrR07z7NiJeS8SaTy3ObO9cU9KYMQlQ0mZhT64AYV7bk-5YlRpi3ogrsmTgfxbEgSOKN68s54wOlHwsokYRBoePo7vwSYQ0B_PXHIHSvZURzs5rI-gLa_LMRiXE/s640/20151223_170743.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sunset at the Poseidon's temple</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGupZzdThVkak2EWnpT1lGwuGpRcXDkjj9ijP9uNC_CbbNvNbXLPcj2DWUjuS8mvB0YlO8Acjenl2nJ1Xs_JfgZWqmPTX0Qxd0wTU217YoCEpXzn-Citk-tzfBGb8DOXGOo02k09Q0FE/s1600/sektpr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGupZzdThVkak2EWnpT1lGwuGpRcXDkjj9ijP9uNC_CbbNvNbXLPcj2DWUjuS8mvB0YlO8Acjenl2nJ1Xs_JfgZWqmPTX0Qxd0wTU217YoCEpXzn-Citk-tzfBGb8DOXGOo02k09Q0FE/s640/sektpr.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">really good sector Hada</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7b9v7vDJD5r42bjnLQEt3PPKqW-37kWrgZrn1yl3x0hPbWZySEMWBlhcign7hlDy10h8mefy_LlUXaYxvCPBsXmwlkV2lNkmdSXItrsSLfmsmPLlYM01SzLni0WJa-TfEaZcX1oIZoPQ/s1600/cpluss.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7b9v7vDJD5r42bjnLQEt3PPKqW-37kWrgZrn1yl3x0hPbWZySEMWBlhcign7hlDy10h8mefy_LlUXaYxvCPBsXmwlkV2lNkmdSXItrsSLfmsmPLlYM01SzLni0WJa-TfEaZcX1oIZoPQ/s640/cpluss.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sighting 7c+</td></tr>
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-74079699326118661472015-11-30T10:15:00.002-08:002015-11-30T10:15:49.367-08:00The Time !<br />
Last week I missed 1 day in school to go climbing in new sector in Istria called Rock n Roč.<br />
When I first went there, there were couple of projects and one caught my eye. For my dad it was the ugliest one, but for me the opposite. Short, bouldery overhang with hard power moves which are pretty attractive. At first I didn't even know if it's possible for me because I couldn't visualize moves at all. After projecting it for 2-3 days I got all moves and was ready to send it. <br />
At the end there is one move where I need to let my legs go in the air, and usually I was falling there because I was too pumped to hold only on arms.<br />
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When we got there everything was covered in fog and I thought conditions won't be good for climbing, but it turned out it was good day.<br />
I fell few times on move with legs in the air, but in the last try in day I sticked everything and sent my hardest FA! I wasn't sure how to grade it, but it felt hard even though I'm in really good form for such bouldery routes so I graded it as 8B+. It seems I didn't miss as Jakob Schubert sent it few days after me and said it's hard and grade can't be lower, and that maybe it could be 8c.<br />
I named it ''The Time'' because under the route there is some old clock around starting tufas.<br />
I'm really proud I did FA in this route. I think it is an amazing route.<br />
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Thanks Luka Tambaca for these awesome photos :)<br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-26182200701089535332015-11-18T13:07:00.003-08:002015-11-18T13:07:45.539-08:00Chironico 2015 2nd time<br />
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Boom!<br />
I spent 9 days in Cresciano and Chironico with happy crew from Zagreb and Split : Luka Tambača, Karlo Čubrić, Ivan Pevec, Nikola Kramarić and Luka trumbić.<br />
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These were 9 days of perfect weather, much fun and a lot of hard boulders.<br />
It was such nice mental rest and relaxation. Nature was beautiful, no snow yet and everything was in autumn colours. We had awesome house high on the hill and beautiful view. I would easily stay there for a month or two without a problem.<br />
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After first day of climbing in Chironico I knew I'm stronger than last time. I did pretty easily <i>Souvenir 8a/a+</i> with which I struggled to do any moves earlier this year. I added <i>Komilator 7C</i> flash and cool jump start <i>7C Vanillasky</i>.<br />
Next day we went to Cresciano, it was my first true time bouldering there. I did <i>7C La grotte des soupirs</i> and tried some 8a's.<br />
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Now when I got feeling for granite,I took rest on 3rd day in order to prepare for my main target of the trip. It was Einfisch Kleinfisch 8b in Chironico which I had unfinished business with from earlier trip this year.<br />
I was really syked for this one and wanted to do it before my fingertips get bloody because this boulder is damaging skin pretty fast. At first it went okay, but I wasn't sure if I will be able to do it, and then suddenly I came up with some changes in beta which fit me better. After some tries with new beta, I managed to climb it. Woohoo! With it I have highest boulder grade climbed in Croatia, together with Boris Zokić. Now I could dedicate to other boulders without having to spare skin.<br />
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Until the end of the trip I sent <i>8a+ Kirk Windstein</i> (Cresciano), <i>Miss schweiz 8a</i> (Chironico), <i>Electric ant squat start 8a+ </i>(Chironico) and a lot of 7C's and 7B's.<br />
As a most beautiful boulder I did on the trip I have to point out Kirk Windstein, I really enjoyed it.<br />
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I wasn't the only one to raise personal record this trip though, Pevec did his first 8A+ Kirk Windstein, Karlo his first 7B+ Dr. med dent and Nikola 8a/a+ Souvenir <br />
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On our way home, we agreed this trip was sooo good and started forging plans for our next trip :)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electric ant squat 8A+</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlgIJWG9KQdVYRQ93fDY4hiShITcKiWyo5lFs3gMs9XENPDnlffx6yI9gNwwbOKEWs_oox7BnrvKmoN9X8GnssAoWCZv1EgxnDcquLJinWuSIZj93l_2dNCAqEV8JQyCqUKz5fmdDqqk/s1600/ci2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlgIJWG9KQdVYRQ93fDY4hiShITcKiWyo5lFs3gMs9XENPDnlffx6yI9gNwwbOKEWs_oox7BnrvKmoN9X8GnssAoWCZv1EgxnDcquLJinWuSIZj93l_2dNCAqEV8JQyCqUKz5fmdDqqk/s640/ci2.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La grotte des soupirs 7C</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Einfisch Kleinfisch 8b</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village on top of the hill where we chilled on rest days</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like this one :D</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrA8H5wvwnUZRHgNM8DzF57NP5zYtsTM_GR3nJ-EAAN9kEpn57167bxMOhEl9LAFbqmqNNgAfJmRUUMTyNl9xPPEKsffUkSyg6bFRNbOTMTuGiM1z9uOi8nN2GKMspilG2CQn3bNe0i0/s1600/ci6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrA8H5wvwnUZRHgNM8DzF57NP5zYtsTM_GR3nJ-EAAN9kEpn57167bxMOhEl9LAFbqmqNNgAfJmRUUMTyNl9xPPEKsffUkSyg6bFRNbOTMTuGiM1z9uOi8nN2GKMspilG2CQn3bNe0i0/s640/ci6.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kirk Windstein 8A+</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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All these photos are from Luka Tambača.<br />
Other pics of the trip you can find on: <a href="http://lukatambaca.com/ticino15">http://lukatambaca.com/ticino15</a><br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-80763806938329989372015-11-18T13:07:00.002-08:002015-11-18T13:07:39.775-08:00Summary of recent events<br />
I didn't write for some time now. Mostly forgot or didn't have time to write, so I'll put short summary of what happened since last post.<br />
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Firstly, there was European youth cup in Langenfeld where I managed to get into my first boulder finals and finished 5th.<br />
Next, on European youth championship in L'Argentiere I got into finals and finished 5th again. This made me 4th overall in European youth cup. These 2 finals were sign of my big improvement from last year where I was mostly around 12. place.<br />
I was on my first senior's boulder competition, World cup in Munich where I finished 63. out of 121 competitor.<br />
At the end, I became national senior champion in boulder, lead and speed!<br />
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This year is 25 years from first croatian 8a, <i>Cocomo</i> in Costiera, climbed by my dad. At that time climbing 8a was a real deal. For the anniversary I went there with him as I never actually tried that route before. I was surprised how bouldery and short route my dad chose for first 8a, because now he likes only endurance and long routes. I sent it on 2nd go, and sighted one other 8a there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKSmj7xM11Ykzi_Epe2bn5Dn4oR1o5XMYLHtH_4cSql-Is50PEylcpOzPwAdJEPPVSFIKf0CdpX7kNQtabyDowejIW6pHwWAo4PVmuhZmvi2H1-46xBqG5ICkucHlEfRkd-KKHZQinufQ/s1600/cocomo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKSmj7xM11Ykzi_Epe2bn5Dn4oR1o5XMYLHtH_4cSql-Is50PEylcpOzPwAdJEPPVSFIKf0CdpX7kNQtabyDowejIW6pHwWAo4PVmuhZmvi2H1-46xBqG5ICkucHlEfRkd-KKHZQinufQ/s640/cocomo.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad and me in Cocomo (pic was taken on same day)</td></tr>
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-26362150153683116782015-07-01T11:47:00.001-07:002016-03-30T05:07:26.228-07:00Sending some projects<br />
Now when school is over I had some time to finish some of my projects.<br />
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So last week I sent pumpy route <i>Katakombe</i> 8b+ in Kotečnik which I was trying some time last year. It felt really easy on sending try. <br />
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Few days later I went to Paklenica to do some bouldering, did 7c <i>By the way</i> in few tries which was hardest boulder in Paklenica until then. After it I went to try a long time boulder project at the entrance of park which always caught my eye when passing by because it's on the road so everyone notices it when going in canyon. I really wanted to see if it's possible for me. I realised it's actually beautiful boulder. It has 2 power moves and easy top-out and is actually quite high, about 6 metres. After studying it that evening I managed to send it next morning with good friction and graded it 8a. I named it <i>Corona</i> because it is really nice and it kinda crowns all of the boulders in Paklenica. I'm glad I also did significant boulder achievement in Paklenica together with Maratoneta.<br />
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video link -<a href="https://www.facebook.com/zagrebclimbing/videos/1020878024624255/"> https://www.facebook.com/zagrebclimbing/videos/1020878024624255/</a><br />
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Same week I went to Pokojec to finally do <i>Kill Bill </i>8b which is pretty tricky route with few moves which are kind of lucky because you need to hit a pocket nicely. First time ever I managed to do the crux, and I was really happy I'm gonna send the route and then big foothold broke under my foot and I slipped off. Next try I didn't do it and my fingers began to hurt me because of the pocket, but as usual in last try of the day I sent it. It's 3rd ascent of this route for now.<br />
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Soon boulder competitions are starting for me, hoping to be strong.Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-24189859114227820192015-05-17T10:16:00.001-07:002015-05-17T10:16:27.196-07:00European championship Innsbruck<br />
Last week I was on my first seniors european bouldering competition.<br />
I went with Ivan Pevec, Krešo Morić and Luka Kivela and I was happy I have some company at last.<br />
I had no expectations, I went to gather experience. I didn't know how hard boulders are on such competitions, and now I know.<br />
I got 1 top and 3 zones from 5 boulders. Not too good, but okay for first time. Most often the problem was I couldn't hold on such small holds. I need more finger power for hard boulders like that. <br />
I ended 69th out of 86 competitors, Kivela on same place and Morić and Pevec sharing 77th place.<br />
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On same day after competition Pevec and I went bouldering on some nearby spot and I sent 2 7c's, one of them on flash, and a 7b+ on flash.<br />
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Despite the results we had nice trip and a lot of fun and I look forward to more such trips.<br />
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/I have no photos of me climbing because noone could photograph as we were all in the same time in isolation/ Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-58409223644095122152015-04-26T11:45:00.000-07:002015-05-09T07:51:42.343-07:00Il Maratoneta<br />
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Today I fulfilled my dream of sending Il Maratoneta, the legendary 8b+ in Paklenica!<br />
It was bolted by <span style="font-weight: normal;">Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla in </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">1987, and in 28 years this is 6th send of this route, and 2nd croatian send after Ivan Lisica.</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><br />The name origin: Manolo was running a lot and on one run from Trieste to Paklenica he bolted the route and made few tries. He took rest and ran to Split and back, and after coming back he sent the Maratoneta. What a story!</span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">It is amazing how he caught eye on this perfect piece of rock. Since I was a kid I have passed by Maratoneta many times and I always thought it has no holds, that only some superhuman could do it. When I was closer</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> to climbing that grade I went in it once and I liked her from start.</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">The route is just perfect, 15 metres long, located on the back side of a fallen block and isolated from other routes. It's overhanging and seeks precise and sometimes long moves on really small crimps. All of the holds are on such perfect places like it's some artist's work. Every move is beautiful and I really enjoyed climbing it every time. </span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">The only problem is it is extremely sharp, and I could do max 4 tries per day as my fingers would scream after that. But that gives some sort of charm to it, you come and you give it your everything if you want to do it. I often had to ignore the sharpness and do every move with max power, which was hard sometimes. Although Maratoneta is graded 8b+, it's very old grade and I'd say it could be harder, but anyway Maratoneta isn't climbed for it's grade but for it's status.</span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">I wanted to do it before my 18th birthday and this was probably the last weekend to achieve that. Yesterday route was a bit wet but I still had few good tries. Today my first try resulted in falling at the very end of the hard moves. After that try my fingers were really damaged so I wanted to stop for that day because the pain was big. But thanks to Pevec, Čorko, Škalec and my father persuading me, I gave it one more try. </span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">And that was the try I needed! Real battle with pain and pump, resulting in a send.</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Now that I sent it I'm really happy to finally accomplish one of my dreams, but at the same time I'm a bit sad because I won't be trying Maratoneta anymore and I enjoyed every move in it. It's just the best route I know.</span><br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-67048008219292777032015-03-17T13:31:00.000-07:002015-03-18T14:37:23.108-07:00Chironico 2015<br />
Just came back from awesome trip in Chironico.<br />
The trip was great. Best group of people and nice weather. We hit 5 days of perfect weather for climbing with rain starting just as we were going home. <br />
I was excited to be on a boulder trip again. To put crash pad on the back and head into the forest, then seeing granite boulders with magnesium on it, just priceless.<br />
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I had in mind to try and send something harder than 8a.<br />
First day I was getting used to rock and sent one-mover 7c <i>Doctor brusch</i> and some easier boulders. I tried grande classic Boogalagga, which is really awesome but I couldn't do first move. Later I saw videos but we didn't come back there to try new beta.<br />
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Second day sent 7c <i>Kiss me</i>, also with one hard move. At the end of the day we went to try <i>Doctor Pinch</i> 8a+ in guidebook. I sent it after some tries but it seems most people downgrade it to 7c+, though it didn't feel easy for me.<br />
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Third day we were in US 101 sector, the best in my opinion. Lots of harder boulders, but there is quite a bit walking from one boulder to the other. There I sent classic 8a <i>Arete with the pocket</i> in few tries which felt easy for me. It's longer boulder on endurance, really really beautiful.<br />
Just as we were watching 8b Kleinfisch kleinfisch and figuring out how it should be climbed, some guy came to us and showed us good beta for it. I tried it and I felt it is possible for me. I adapted beta a bit, and next 2 climbing days spent mostly trying that 8b. I had few close tries, but in the end lack of skin on fingers and scratched knee resulted in no send.<br />
So I ended trip with not so many ascents, but I'm not really sad as I think I have that 8b next time I come there, and I proved to myself it is possible for me to do 8b boulder.<br />
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On rest day we visited Cresciano just to check it out because we didn't have guidebook for it. We agreed it looks great because there are a lot more boulders on smaller space and we said we are definitely coming back there.<br />
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At the end,I gotta say I was suprised how light but still not so small is the new crash pad MiniDo from Cassin that I took to try it out.<br />
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<u>Summary of ascents in Chironico:</u><br />
day 1: 6b+ mp3 *flash*, 6b+ Offene ture , 7c Doctor brusch *flash*, 7a Los cursos *flash*<br />
day 2: 6b+ Pansen *flash*, 7a+ Palma tina, 7c Kiss me, 6c+ Opus day *flash*, 7c+ Doctor pinch<br />
day3: 7a+ Nanosecondo sit *flash*, 8a Arete with the pocket<br />
day4: rest<br />
day5: 7b Walking in the desert *flash*, / trying 8b <br />
day6: /trying 8b /<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doctor pinch 7c+</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">big crazy tree</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arete with the pocket 8a</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVs1otvuGaC50FGDujB66Db3dAHBskXvci-ilHpu7iGPfNyQ82bBPRPF6Uc9FpTno8jyxM-VD4sYg1LG03yFSKYBMbVf_kEG_tZMOj_FutUQSLcG9Bj4NCnf7SN6V3Y6tdaNBCM0NWig/s1600/20150313_122653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVs1otvuGaC50FGDujB66Db3dAHBskXvci-ilHpu7iGPfNyQ82bBPRPF6Uc9FpTno8jyxM-VD4sYg1LG03yFSKYBMbVf_kEG_tZMOj_FutUQSLcG9Bj4NCnf7SN6V3Y6tdaNBCM0NWig/s1600/20150313_122653.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking in the desert 7b</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Opus day 6c+</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Yesterdays I was on last round of BLOK league in Zagreb. I feel really strong after power trainings. Six best climbers were in finals, and I was the only one to flash all 3 problems and placed 1st. That made me overall winner of this season.<br />
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Today I'm going for Chironico with awesome crew from Zagreb, and I'm hoping for successful trip with some hard boulder sendings.<br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-31562747343640317752015-01-20T02:20:00.001-08:002015-01-20T02:20:52.899-08:00NLP League #1 Ljubljana<br />
This weekend Krešo Morić, Tomislav Šproh, Eduard Tudor ( the best driver ) and I visited NLP boulder league in Slovenia.<br />
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There were 36 boulder problems in boulder center Stena, and 8 of them were qualifying boulders for the finals. It was boulder jam system with 8 hours to climb boulders. I really liked the qualifying boulders, and I did them all. Among 8 finalists were Krešo and me.<br />
Finals were climbed on a new system for me, elimination. 3 problems and everyone has 3 tries for every problem and you can look each other. After each problem 2 last climbers were eliminated. I really like the thrill of that system. In first boulder after 2 tries I was the last because I couldn't pass the crux, and I was a bit worried. But in last try I changed my beta and made it to the top. Oh what excitement! Finally, I made it to last 4 climbers on last boulder and placed 3rd at the end, and Krešo was 7th.<br />
After the competition we went on a dinner, ordering venison goulash. It was really fantastic after almost all day of climbing. We are looking forward for next NLP competition.<br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-87388381681250428842015-01-10T09:31:00.000-08:002015-02-05T09:32:51.232-08:00Winter holidays <br />
So these winter holidays I spent mostly climbing as usual, and some skiing after long time.<br />
I was on a 9 day climbing trip in Spain with my dad, Filip Pečenec, Jani Zoraj and her mom.<br />
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We had in plan to escape cold weather in Croatia and go on some sunny and warm place like Spain. But weather wasn't as we expected. Most of the time it was cold, around 2 degrees, with foggy weather in the valley where most of the best crags were located. We didn't even climb in Oliana, the best crag there, because when we came whole rock was covered in fog and it was really cold. <br />
But the climbing spot that delighted us was Santa Linya. A big open cave where it was so warm that we could climb in short sleeves, and that was the reason we came to Spain.<br />
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I climbed mostly on sight and 2nd go. I sent few 8a+'s 2nd go, few 7c+'s and 7c's on sight and some more easier routes on sight. I have to mention that Jani sent her first 8a on the trip, and now she is the youngest Croatian climber with that grade.<br />
I wasn't really satisfied with the trip, as I didnt expect such cold weather.<br />
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After the trip I took around 12 days rest, and few days spent skiing
with friends. And I have to say it was warmer on skiing than in Spain
climbing.<br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-44542716021517689302014-11-01T11:37:00.001-07:002014-11-01T11:40:01.749-07:00Prilep(ic)<br />
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Last week I was in Macedonia on a boulder trip in Prilep. I climbed 4 days in total, and I mostly sent 7b+ and 7c's on flash. I really like flashing boulders, it feels really good to do all the moves first time you try them.<br />
Weather in Prilep was way colder than I expected, I had to wear jacket all the time while not climbing, but on the other hand the grip was extremely good.<br />
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First day, when we came pretty late, I climbed some 6c's and 7a's and I wasn' really amazed by Prilep, but next day after flashing <i>Žolta zmija 7c</i> I was really thrilled and after each new boulder I liked Prilep more. I was prepared for the fact that Prilep has really sharp and skin-eating boulders, and first 2 days I was okay with skin, but 3rd day when I tried <i>Velika Smetka 8a</i> few times, it started to be painful. I realized I won't be able to do it with fingers in that condition, so I took 1 day rest to regenerate some skin, and it did pay off next day when I sent it ! I was happy I still have some skin after it so I went to climb a classic,<i> Predator 7c+, </i>and<i> Zagrebački 7c </i>just because it is Filip Pečenec's boulder. That was the most successful bouldering day for me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiX_N_C_oblKgre0jyIhTPdrhbcky32MM26IUHpjDBkFEoWMUbawIudXeghk8FN8JpsfuE9eWKXrsMdpBa-bLPKIaPI0nCwZf1Y2Tw_iqdqFp4f46L5xhG_N6EEF38JTz1Y624stPAsu4/s1600/IMG_0732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiX_N_C_oblKgre0jyIhTPdrhbcky32MM26IUHpjDBkFEoWMUbawIudXeghk8FN8JpsfuE9eWKXrsMdpBa-bLPKIaPI0nCwZf1Y2Tw_iqdqFp4f46L5xhG_N6EEF38JTz1Y624stPAsu4/s1600/IMG_0732.JPG" height="528" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Velika Smetka 8a</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNf4NfYgluGshjQSmr-FCeJtOUsLAKEE1wcLPSYrbI-bIB1Z9Vl44cOSXIp7dOhCoxJP4hiuJ4Z803wTrDeZV7M8EgnxOw-ttJTANjh4kq4JYc4Ot7mdYfkb3skeUmG0ds90vqatDcmo/s1600/IMG_0749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNf4NfYgluGshjQSmr-FCeJtOUsLAKEE1wcLPSYrbI-bIB1Z9Vl44cOSXIp7dOhCoxJP4hiuJ4Z803wTrDeZV7M8EgnxOw-ttJTANjh4kq4JYc4Ot7mdYfkb3skeUmG0ds90vqatDcmo/s1600/IMG_0749.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Predator 7c+</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPk-dZU-ToBYKJAcwD0vCpw0XDOFYmfkSrbMuWgKhikkYHr4YoRMhAok9FnX8K89jbBC9SMH5Vq5qbfkQ0o7AMVprg7gHl8wTHS-HczWeT-I0dhwbmUchZq73JXouPZI9hC4LPzgOtdcI/s1600/IMG_0760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPk-dZU-ToBYKJAcwD0vCpw0XDOFYmfkSrbMuWgKhikkYHr4YoRMhAok9FnX8K89jbBC9SMH5Vq5qbfkQ0o7AMVprg7gHl8wTHS-HczWeT-I0dhwbmUchZq73JXouPZI9hC4LPzgOtdcI/s1600/IMG_0760.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zagrebacki 7c</td></tr>
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All in all, I really liked Prilep, the scenery is wonderful while climbing, sleeping and food are really cheap and bouldering is awesome while you have skin. But even you don't, just tape and continue. <br />
If I compare Magic Wood and Prilep, I'd say Magic Wood has better pure bouldering, but Prilep is better as a trip. You can be sure you won't have as much raining days as in Magic, and even if you have few, you don't need to sit in tent and wait for it to stop. You also don't need to cook your own food :D That's a real relief for me.<br />
I will come back for sure, and I want to make new sector as there is a lot of potential still.<br />
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Summary:<br />
<i>Day 1: easier routes up to 7a+</i><br />
<i>Day 2: Žolta zmija 7c (flash), Lost in paradise 7b+ (flash), Tup tup 7b+ (flash), Gladiator sit 7c+,</i><br />
<i> Es tut mir gleich 7a+ (flash)</i><br />
<i>Day 3: Gotham city 7c (flash), some easier routes</i><br />
<i>Day 4: rest </i><br />
<i>Day 5: Velika Smetka 8a, Cocoon 7a (flash), Predator 7c+, Zagrebacki 7c, Dilajla 7b+ </i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZwlWzoW0WpnEw92mw7ftZNlM5bGW8gMUy3wXXYjPdps8LFs9As7EYD4L5QOnYlXr3sWjAP-LMaIqVn5Hd0g4NMxNAgRDeMF58t9H1pwA_4EsF7YLLwCmQEP7rukZhQlHcOLQPGVXpr4/s1600/20141031_100721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZwlWzoW0WpnEw92mw7ftZNlM5bGW8gMUy3wXXYjPdps8LFs9As7EYD4L5QOnYlXr3sWjAP-LMaIqVn5Hd0g4NMxNAgRDeMF58t9H1pwA_4EsF7YLLwCmQEP7rukZhQlHcOLQPGVXpr4/s1600/20141031_100721.jpg" height="400" width="382" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Animal transport in Macedonia</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Split crew</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmibbIwNMnarCVLwtf5Zy6fVUtCiBoiSUSljbagsopyIEeMvMNG8GDeLgyLORifU6pieiTPMMnBiJLWeEMTDTgyZ0ntF3ZNRtdRXFvRlPVpWpgK-X4iUc9MVEK_t7T-zYizvHfR2-v35U/s1600/20141027_102201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmibbIwNMnarCVLwtf5Zy6fVUtCiBoiSUSljbagsopyIEeMvMNG8GDeLgyLORifU6pieiTPMMnBiJLWeEMTDTgyZ0ntF3ZNRtdRXFvRlPVpWpgK-X4iUc9MVEK_t7T-zYizvHfR2-v35U/s1600/20141027_102201.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tobacoo fields around Prilep</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chess for relaxing</td></tr>
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-43673875526719963342014-10-20T09:47:00.002-07:002014-10-24T08:12:45.644-07:00Fothia Boulder Open <br />
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This weekend was the long awaited opening of new Fothia boulder gym, in which I train. Now it is more than 2 times bigger than before and it has many new holds and shapes. I'm syked to train there now :D<br />
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There was a competition to celebrate the opening, and we invited few Slovenians so it was pretty interesting. There were nice but pretty hard boulders in qualification. I was the only Croatian guy in the finals, together with Kruder, Bizjak, Pintar, Hribar and Zan Sudar, strong guys. When it became darker, spotlights were turned on and our DJ Sanjin was playing music, and everybody gathered to watch finals.<br />
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Slovenians told me to climb without a shirt like they did, but I rarely do that so I didn't want to, and they joked me about that. But after the first boulder, I was actually the only one to do it, so I told them it was because of shirt. I was surprised I was leading after first 3 boulders, it was really tense, but I didn't do last boulder and Kruder did, so I took 2nd place after Kruder, and Bizjak was 3rd.<br />
After the competition we went into some nightlife and had good fun. <br />
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I was really happy I can compete with such strong guys, and now I'm ready for new trainings in new gym. <br />
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<br />Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-724165476400892833.post-85666711248739214252014-08-20T03:03:00.001-07:002014-10-20T09:48:57.651-07:00Magic Wood and EYC Langenfeld<br />
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Hello everyone !<br />
Welcome to the first post on my new blog.<br />
I decided to open a blog so I can keep tracks of my climbing trips and competitions.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="color: blue;"><b>MAGIC WOOD</b></span></h3>
<b> </b><span style="background-color: white;">Before EYC in Langenfeld I had plan to visit Magic Wood to make good training for boulder competitions. Group formed pretty quick, in which were Salih Mulaosmanovic, Arman Kovacevic, Stasa Gejo and her mother Vesna Pavlovic, Barbara Gilic and Frane Culic from Split, Vito Muzevic and me. We departed on 6.8. and it was pretty cool and fun drive, and we arrived to Magic at around 11 p.m. The camp was almost full, and we found last 4 places for our tents. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Next morning when I got out of tent I realised where I actually am, in Magic Wood, bouldering heaven. I was really syked to go climb some boulders. When we went into the forest, I just wanted to climb climb and climb. We warmed up in<i> Madame Etoile 6b+</i>, really nice traverse. Then I sent some 7a, and after that we went to beach to climb <i>Grit de luxe 7b </i>which I flashed<i>. </i>That route is awesome! </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJkVSK_5rhwSp9VrSt1jfCfb7Q3YVLz2SM6oUY8Dp5QnDs0vRysSO5VEyn6J8ePudgabZFAG3lpg7UIEzMeqY3IwuvQQA_Y5ZMQfvm8K4ZY8r8tbcu8xAvwMVIqVmLF0_YYW34TJx_Rv4/s1600/Grit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Grit de luxe 7b" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJkVSK_5rhwSp9VrSt1jfCfb7Q3YVLz2SM6oUY8Dp5QnDs0vRysSO5VEyn6J8ePudgabZFAG3lpg7UIEzMeqY3IwuvQQA_Y5ZMQfvm8K4ZY8r8tbcu8xAvwMVIqVmLF0_YYW34TJx_Rv4/s1600/Grit.jpg" height="212" title="Frane in grit de luxe" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frane in Grit de luxe</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;">After it, I flashed <i>Dropzone 7a </i>and sent <i>7c Hohenzone</i> in first try, but I climbed Dropzone which is part of it so its not real flash. Both are nice crimpy boulders. Salih told me that there is one 7c nearby which is on crimps and I should try flashing it. And so we went to <i>Schneebrett </i>, Barbara explained me the beta and I was syked for the flash. It has one long move that I made and after that 3 small crimps but I didn't want to fall on them, so I crimped them hard and there I was, mantling out my first 7c flash before I realised it. It was really nice end of the first day in Magic :)</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXLvjwpOn1zuDhlJgJCXTPpCjxhzebclM6sYmFsDzxPLX3kHiEadVcaFR-kyNLIpgJ7d2Pmy8EHLloa8SxRykKY7nu29d4xQc38vVMOSE4AxlUsQqcwV4x8fvis8S7DQ0M4Mr01sP020/s1600/DSC_2409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Schneebrett 7c" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXLvjwpOn1zuDhlJgJCXTPpCjxhzebclM6sYmFsDzxPLX3kHiEadVcaFR-kyNLIpgJ7d2Pmy8EHLloa8SxRykKY7nu29d4xQc38vVMOSE4AxlUsQqcwV4x8fvis8S7DQ0M4Mr01sP020/s1600/DSC_2409.JPG" height="424" title="" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flashing Schneebrett 7c</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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2. day I flashed <i>Wildfire 6c</i>, and sent <i>Smeagol 7b</i> which felt pretty hard. I was trying Supernova 7c which I felt 10 days after in my left leg and left arm because of constant heel hook and compression. I also tried some 8a's, and Foxy dyno where I was really close to do it.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJHAZE2d849A14cA0EuuLa_sK5w5mGk9AyRJST7oUZqERQuT6EzYA4AQuSzpF-G31QhKE2W5pbga6m3V5zCkb2MVeZB-K-iFiQFNwHD-ZlyfqL4L2am0uwtx_irhv8S8Fx80VNfDmVvA/s1600/DSC_2615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJHAZE2d849A14cA0EuuLa_sK5w5mGk9AyRJST7oUZqERQuT6EzYA4AQuSzpF-G31QhKE2W5pbga6m3V5zCkb2MVeZB-K-iFiQFNwHD-ZlyfqL4L2am0uwtx_irhv8S8Fx80VNfDmVvA/s1600/DSC_2615.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foxy dyno</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZ4raSqAbLQJChhBFFhyphenhyphenKpnmZs25zjhJUS2oBDZZFAE1mM37frfqaX_0UyAJkEhb2vq4HKw1N0OLSXLYzjxFBUq5iYORWZiYmI9UBeE4_cwYPJhITawmZO6KFFAtUKUnsIrlxl5xfeQk/s1600/DSC_2525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZ4raSqAbLQJChhBFFhyphenhyphenKpnmZs25zjhJUS2oBDZZFAE1mM37frfqaX_0UyAJkEhb2vq4HKw1N0OLSXLYzjxFBUq5iYORWZiYmI9UBeE4_cwYPJhITawmZO6KFFAtUKUnsIrlxl5xfeQk/s1600/DSC_2525.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supernova 7c</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"> 3. day it was raining all day. It's so boring in camp when it is raining, so most of the day we were eating or in the village on the wi-fi. I wanted to have rest day anyway because my biceps hurted a lot after Supernova.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">4. day rain again :( But it stopped around noon and we went into the forest to find some dry boulders. I sent<i> Dinos dont dyno's 7b/+</i> and flashed<i> Intermezzo 7b+</i> (in guidebook 7c but everyone say it isn't). </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">5. day raaain again, so we went to Chur for indoor boulder training.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Last day it was raining half of the day , and when it stopped I was trying <i>Octopussy 8a </i>, it went pretty good and I believe I have it next time I come there.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood chopping in camp, or at least trying to...</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Magic Wood really fulfilled my expectations. I would like to come back any time.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">In the evening we packed up and went to Zillertal. I don't know why, but probably to escape the bad weather and find some drier boulders.</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">SLEEPING IN THE BARN</span></span></h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">We had in mind we will sleep in some free camp in Ginzling we heard of, but we came in the village at 12p.m. and we couldn't find the camp in the night, so we didnt know what to do now. My father sent me address of climbing legend Gerhard H</span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="_5yl5" data-reactid=".e8.$mid=11408526641904=226622f3e6e55651d06.2:0.0.0.0.0"><span class="null">ö</span></span>rhager, who bolted <i>Moskito 8b</i> in Paklenica, which I sent last summer and is one of my favorite routes I've climbed. He has some sort of climbing farm where you can sleep, so we wanted to sleep there. At around 1 a.m. we came to his house and called him on phone but he was probably sleeping so he didn't answer. We tried to find doorbell on his house, but he didn't have any. Oh man I can imagine how we looked like some burglars going around the house in the middle of the night with headlamps haha. As we couldn't contact him and it was already really late, we decided to put few tents in front of his barn and sleep there.</span></span><br />
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</span></span> </span></span></h3>
Imagine his face when he saw tents in front of his house next morning :P But he understood us and offered us to train on his boulder because it was raining everywhere. What a legend!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TKJOp7WZMLrETuwBHLMdTiUgVDysiYB0lrWQB-ruTqRWbOCCoTDwo9tnOefEZERZnk1-mEqIcuK7VUzbZFSasC-XRCV7-9H1gt0HJJNeBsKE16aDOmXv75TLE1DPFpGy9gviHGicQIU/s1600/10610485_848840801794712_2094585073969779254_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TKJOp7WZMLrETuwBHLMdTiUgVDysiYB0lrWQB-ruTqRWbOCCoTDwo9tnOefEZERZnk1-mEqIcuK7VUzbZFSasC-XRCV7-9H1gt0HJJNeBsKE16aDOmXv75TLE1DPFpGy9gviHGicQIU/s1600/10610485_848840801794712_2094585073969779254_n.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeah, the boulder is in the barn </td></tr>
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For the next night he also offered us to sleep in the barn, there were some matress in there and it was the most comfortable night on the trip.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">EYC LANGENFELD</span></span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"> </span></span></h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;">After that night I have left the group and my father came to pick me up to go to EYC. I have came 1 day before to see groups who were competing on first day. On last EYC in Argentiere I didn't climb good and I was 30th but now when I saw the boulder problems I was really excited to climb on them because they looked just as I like, and I knew it will be better. And it was good indeed, I climbed pretty good and got 6 tops out of 8, and was really close to have 7. I ended 12. and with one more top I would be 6th and go to finals. Anyways, I was satisfied, but now I know I can do better! Next time I hope for finals.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0df_hGxlM_7w70yqJAJN8BmgYMMiKQauGx9Rg_pKipzapL08qS4SpFLsMt9O6bviJa5oKHFi1qqIdpT2yJRsRglmPuZynfXudoY8ehhpIbiwJsUzy93U7XeULDg9TTOBDji-NgOlSho0/s1600/DSC_27891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0df_hGxlM_7w70yqJAJN8BmgYMMiKQauGx9Rg_pKipzapL08qS4SpFLsMt9O6bviJa5oKHFi1qqIdpT2yJRsRglmPuZynfXudoY8ehhpIbiwJsUzy93U7XeULDg9TTOBDji-NgOlSho0/s1600/DSC_27891.jpg" height="278" width="320" /></a></div>
<h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"> <b><span style="color: blue;">MY FIRST 8A</span></b></span></span></span></span></h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">On the way home I stopped at Felbertauern to climb some more boulders as they were on our way.</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">I wanted to try some 8a because I didn't have enough time in Magic to sent one, so I warmed up in some easier boulders and found </span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><i><span style="color: black;">Schluck du Bruder</span> 8a</i> that I liked. It's nice traverse on slopy holds, looking similiar to Supernova, which I tried in Magic so I got the feeling for that style of boulders. It was going really good, and I sent it in about 45 minutes of trying. My hardest boulder for now :)</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPU9gg-FXqDcbOibZcxtQ_rRdKB2vYcdYgAfz7_DbFfIRXanoXlpoE1srkwALIGpgYb8OdGsDCupvBSzai-GJ7kyMtf3DaCbp335Msobn_q1B1gfjOYHOvzuc-r0qRCd0Odh7DZj1weGM/s1600/10599399_851085561570236_696211429922840071_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPU9gg-FXqDcbOibZcxtQ_rRdKB2vYcdYgAfz7_DbFfIRXanoXlpoE1srkwALIGpgYb8OdGsDCupvBSzai-GJ7kyMtf3DaCbp335Msobn_q1B1gfjOYHOvzuc-r0qRCd0Odh7DZj1weGM/s1600/10599399_851085561570236_696211429922840071_n.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="a8"></span><span style="color: black;">Schluck du Bruder 8a</span></td></tr>
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</span></span><b><span style="color: blue;"> </span></b></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span style="color: blue;"> </span></b><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">This was a really good trip for me, experienced Magic Wood at last, and pushed my bouldering limits.</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br /><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">Until next time, bye :D</span></span><b><span style="color: blue;"> </span></b></span></span> </span></span>Borna Cujichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04520356059978139756noreply@blogger.com0