utorak, 20. siječnja 2015.

NLP League #1 Ljubljana


This weekend Krešo Morić, Tomislav Šproh, Eduard Tudor ( the best driver ) and I visited NLP boulder league in Slovenia.

There were 36 boulder problems in boulder center Stena, and 8 of them were qualifying boulders for the finals. It was boulder jam system with 8 hours to climb boulders. I really liked the qualifying boulders, and I did them all. Among 8 finalists were Krešo and me.
Finals were climbed on a new system for me, elimination. 3 problems and everyone has 3 tries for every problem and you can look each other. After each problem 2 last climbers were eliminated. I really like the thrill of that system. In first boulder after 2 tries I was the last because I couldn't pass the crux, and I was a bit worried. But in last try I changed my beta and made it to the top. Oh what excitement! Finally, I made it to last 4 climbers on last boulder and placed 3rd at the end, and Krešo was 7th.
After the competition we went on a dinner, ordering venison goulash. It was really fantastic after almost all day of climbing. We are looking forward for next NLP competition.






subota, 10. siječnja 2015.

Winter holidays


So these winter holidays I spent mostly climbing as usual, and some skiing after long time.
I was on a 9 day climbing trip in Spain with my dad, Filip Pečenec, Jani Zoraj and her mom.

We had in plan to escape cold weather in Croatia and go on some sunny and warm place like Spain. But weather wasn't as we expected. Most of the time it was cold, around 2 degrees, with foggy weather in the valley where most of the best crags were located. We didn't even climb in Oliana, the best crag there, because when we came whole rock was covered in fog and it was really cold.
But the climbing spot that delighted us was Santa Linya. A big open cave where it was so warm that we could climb in short sleeves, and that was the reason we came to Spain.

I climbed mostly on sight and 2nd go. I sent few 8a+'s 2nd go, few 7c+'s and 7c's on sight and some more easier routes on sight. I have to mention that Jani sent her first 8a on the trip, and now she is the youngest Croatian climber with that grade.
I wasn't really satisfied with the trip, as I didnt expect such cold weather.

After the trip I took around 12 days rest, and few days spent skiing with friends. And I have to say it was warmer on skiing than in Spain climbing.