petak, 14. listopada 2016.

Quo Vadis, rare repeat!




There is one crag really close to my house, like 15 min away, which I haven't visited often.
But there is one harder route, Quo Vadis 8b/b+. It is really short (4 bolts) and powerful bouldery route. It has some hard crimping and clipping, and ends with nice dynamic move to good sloper.
 I tried it before a year or two, and couldn't really hold those small crimps good enough. But now it is just perfect for my current bouldery shape.

So I finally caught some time yesterday and decided to go give it a try.
I entered to figure out beta, and after I went down I wasn't even sure if I will be able to do it the way I imagined, because I didn't put much effort to finding proper foot position. In the meantime it got really cold, but at least friction was wonderful!

So I went for a try, and at one moment just let my legs swing while holding 2 small crimps, and it turned out to be viable beta for me! I fell a bit after because I didn't know where to clip from.
Then, next try, I just walked through it with that new fun beta. That was actually only 3rd repeat of this route!
It was set up by Marko Rožman in 2001, and repeated once more in 2003.
Now, 13 years later I added another repeat.
Sweet achievement :)


pics are from Luka Tambača
leg swing, I like it!

last hard move

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