srijeda, 30. ožujka 2016.

Another lead 8c and bouldering in Swiss


2 Weeks ago I was in Mišja peč after quite long time, and as I didn't have any project there to climb I went to try Talk is cheap! 8c. Slovenian youth team was climbing it and route seemed quite hard, I wasn't sure if I would be able to do the moves at all. They showed me beta and I was surprised how fast I did everything, in first try of the route I got all the moves. Route is hard first 4 bolts, then big rest and easier to the top, which I like. I did few tries in it that day but didn't send it.
When I returned few days later I did it in my first try of the day, all together in 5 tries! I didn't expect to do 8c that fast. Same day I sent Missing link 8b+ which I tried last year and didn't climb it for some time now.    That is my best score for now -  8b+ and 8c in a day.

Talk is cheap!


 This is now my 3rd 8c, because after doing this route I had finally something to compare The Time to, which I FA'd and now I think it is also 8c. They are both similiar in the way that they have short hard sequence, and both fit me well. Still, I'm waiting for some repeats on The Time to confirm the grade.
2 days after and I was already on the way to Cresciano and Chironico to do some bouldering!


Chironico and Cresciano 2016.

 This time Split (Nikola Kramarić and Luka Kivela) and Zagreb ( Karlo Čubrić and me) teamed up for the trip. We had 5 bouldering days.
As always when going bouldering, I was happy to feel the granite and send some classics!
We started searching accomodation too late, and as a result we didn't have comfy stay as before. Rooms didn't have kitchen and dishes, but we quickly adapted and bought paper plates, forks and knives and cooked on gas. It was cool to find solutions for what we needed. Also I was happy that my bad Deutsch finally served me in communication, I managed to ask : Ist this Preis nur fur Schlaffen oder mit Fruhstuck? :D
Weather was kind of too warm, we expected much colder weather. Still, climbing was on the level and I'm happy with my sends.
 I took new Ocun Oxi climbing shoes with me to try them,  and they showed extremely good on boulders so I climbed whole trip in them.

First day Chironico, started off with 7B+ flash and then sending roof beast Willenberg dach 8A. A roof with big holds, but it needs quite some power. For the end of the day went to flash Vitruvian man 7C, but I accidentally did it with chipped hold for foot, so I went for 2nd go.

Second day we went to Cresciano and headed for La Boule 8A, a real classic. There I flashed La boulette 7B which is really nice, and started trying La Boule. It seemed quite hard, a lot of tension and small crimps which hurt for skin. But I liked it very much. After trying the moves I went for the try, I didn't expect to climb it in that try as I barely managed to pull off moves alone, but in a big fight I managed to do it. I was sooo happy, my dearest send ever.

Borna Čujić
La boule 8A

 On 3rd day I took rest to prepare for last 3 days.

Fourth day we were shortly in Cresciano where I did XP 7C, and then to Chironico where I finally did Worthless everything 7C+ thanks to the new beta from Nikola. This boulder I was trying last 2 trips and couldn't do it. After it I also did Tricky 8A, which now seemed pretty easy with right beta.

Ocun oxi
XP 7C and new Ocun Oxi


Day 5 going to new sector in Chironico where I flashed The pocket problem 7C+ , which is my hardest flash for now.  Congratulations to Karlo who also did it and pushed his limit!
A long beauty Second life 8A+ caught my eye and I went to try it. It looks so good, alone on the block, and has some more than 15 moves. Sadly, I fell few times at the end because it just squeezed power from my arms. This will probably be first thing to send next time. Next I wanted to try Boogalaga 8B, but I still wasn't strong enough for it. :(

Last day was real rampage for me. First I did Serre moi fort 8A which I like really much, so good moves. Shortly after it I sent Le vent nous portera 8A, reachy dynamic line with move which takes away feet quite high, exciting to climb. Then I flashed The real shield 7C, one hard move for start then easy to the top. Next I flashed Brechstange 7C,  which has 2 moves on crimps. I felt so solid in it. After it, when night already fell and we climbed with 2 headlamps, I did Salut a toit 7C+ on second go.

Le vent nous portera 8A


Almost all of the routes I did are real classics and amazing lines. I could climb them over and over again.  I'm satisfied with my score, 5 8A's in 5 days and enough 7C's, mostly on flash.

Now training for competitions, and perhaps another boulder trip if I will have time.

All the boulders I did in those 5 days :
7B+ Party boosten (flash)
8A Willenberg dach
7C Vitruvian man
8A La boule
7B La boulette (flash)
7B+ Voci dalla cantina (flash)
7C   XP
7C+ Worthless everything
8A Tricky
7C+ The pocket problem (flash)
8A Serre moi fort
8A Le vent nous portera
7C The real shield (flash)
7C Brechstange (flash)
7C+ Salut a toit