Just came back from awesome trip in Chironico.
The trip was great. Best group of people and nice weather. We hit 5 days of perfect weather for climbing with rain starting just as we were going home.
I was excited to be on a boulder trip again. To put crash pad on the back and head into the forest, then seeing granite boulders with magnesium on it, just priceless.
I had in mind to try and send something harder than 8a.
First day I was getting used to rock and sent one-mover 7c Doctor brusch and some easier boulders. I tried grande classic Boogalagga, which is really awesome but I couldn't do first move. Later I saw videos but we didn't come back there to try new beta.
Second day sent 7c Kiss me, also with one hard move. At the end of the day we went to try Doctor Pinch 8a+ in guidebook. I sent it after some tries but it seems most people downgrade it to 7c+, though it didn't feel easy for me.
Third day we were in US 101 sector, the best in my opinion. Lots of harder boulders, but there is quite a bit walking from one boulder to the other. There I sent classic 8a Arete with the pocket in few tries which felt easy for me. It's longer boulder on endurance, really really beautiful.
Just as we were watching 8b Kleinfisch kleinfisch and figuring out how it should be climbed, some guy came to us and showed us good beta for it. I tried it and I felt it is possible for me. I adapted beta a bit, and next 2 climbing days spent mostly trying that 8b. I had few close tries, but in the end lack of skin on fingers and scratched knee resulted in no send.
So I ended trip with not so many ascents, but I'm not really sad as I think I have that 8b next time I come there, and I proved to myself it is possible for me to do 8b boulder.
On rest day we visited Cresciano just to check it out because we didn't have guidebook for it. We agreed it looks great because there are a lot more boulders on smaller space and we said we are definitely coming back there.
At the end,I gotta say I was suprised how light but still not so small is the new crash pad MiniDo from Cassin that I took to try it out.
Summary of ascents in Chironico:
day 1: 6b+ mp3 *flash*, 6b+ Offene ture , 7c Doctor brusch *flash*, 7a Los cursos *flash*
day 2: 6b+ Pansen *flash*, 7a+ Palma tina, 7c Kiss me, 6c+ Opus day *flash*, 7c+ Doctor pinch
day3: 7a+ Nanosecondo sit *flash*, 8a Arete with the pocket
day4: rest
day5: 7b Walking in the desert *flash*, / trying 8b
day6: /trying 8b /
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| Doctor pinch 7c+ |
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| big crazy tree |
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| Arete with the pocket 8a |
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| Walking in the desert 7b |
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| Opus day 6c+ |
