subota, 1. studenoga 2014.

Prilep(ic)



Last week I was in Macedonia on a boulder trip in Prilep. I climbed 4 days in total, and I mostly sent 7b+ and 7c's on flash. I really like flashing boulders, it feels really good to do all the moves first time you try them.
Weather in Prilep was way colder than I expected, I had to wear jacket all the time while not climbing, but on the other hand the grip was extremely good.


First day, when we came pretty late, I climbed some 6c's and 7a's and I wasn' really amazed by Prilep, but next day after flashing Žolta zmija 7c  I was really thrilled and after each new boulder I liked Prilep more. I was prepared for the fact that Prilep has really sharp and skin-eating boulders, and first 2 days I was okay with skin, but 3rd day when I tried Velika Smetka 8a few times, it started to be painful. I realized I won't be able to do it with fingers in that condition, so I took 1 day rest to regenerate some skin, and it did pay off next day when I sent it ! I was happy I still have some skin after it so I went to climb a classic, Predator 7c+, and Zagrebački 7c just because it is Filip Pečenec's boulder. That was the most successful bouldering day for me.

Velika Smetka 8a
Predator 7c+
Zagrebacki 7c
All in all, I really liked Prilep, the scenery is wonderful while climbing, sleeping and food are really cheap and bouldering is awesome while you have skin. But even you don't, just tape and continue.
If I compare Magic Wood and Prilep, I'd say Magic Wood has better pure bouldering, but Prilep is better as a trip. You can be sure you won't have as much raining days as in Magic, and even if you have few, you don't need to sit in tent and wait for it to stop. You also don't need to cook your own food :D That's a real relief for me.
I will come back for sure, and I want to make new sector as there is a lot of potential still.

 Summary:
Day 1: easier routes up to 7a+
Day 2: Žolta zmija 7c (flash), Lost in paradise 7b+ (flash), Tup tup 7b+ (flash), Gladiator sit 7c+,
           Es tut mir gleich 7a+ (flash)
Day 3: Gotham city 7c (flash), some easier routes
Day 4: rest
Day 5: Velika Smetka 8a, Cocoon 7a (flash), Predator 7c+, Zagrebacki 7c, Dilajla 7b+


Animal transport in Macedonia
Split crew
Tobacoo fields around Prilep
Chess for relaxing