Magic Wood and EYC Langenfeld

Hello everyone !
Welcome to the first post on my new blog.
I decided to open a blog so I can keep tracks of my climbing trips and competitions.

MAGIC WOOD

 Before EYC in Langenfeld I had plan to visit Magic Wood to make good training for boulder competitions. Group formed pretty quick, in which were Salih Mulaosmanovic, Arman Kovacevic, Stasa Gejo and her mother Vesna Pavlovic, Barbara Gilic and Frane Culic from Split, Vito Muzevic and me. We departed on 6.8. and it was pretty cool and fun drive, and we arrived to Magic at around 11 p.m. The camp was almost full, and we found last 4 places for our tents. 

Next morning when I got out of tent I realised where I actually am, in Magic Wood, bouldering heaven. I was really syked to go climb some boulders. When we went into the forest, I just wanted to climb climb and climb. We warmed up in Madame Etoile 6b+, really nice traverse. Then I sent some 7a, and after that we went to beach to climb Grit de luxe 7b which I flashed. That route is awesome! 

Frane in Grit de luxe

After it, I flashed Dropzone 7a and sent 7c Hohenzone in first try, but I climbed Dropzone which is part of it so its not real flash. Both are nice crimpy boulders. Salih told me that there is one 7c nearby which is on crimps and I should try flashing it. And so we went to Schneebrett , Barbara explained me the beta and I was syked for the flash. It has one long move that I made and after that 3 small crimps but I didn't want to fall on them, so I crimped them hard and there I was, mantling out my first 7c flash before I realised it. It was really nice end of the first day in Magic :)

Flashing Schneebrett 7c

2. day I flashed Wildfire 6c, and sent Smeagol 7b which felt pretty hard. I was trying Supernova 7c which I felt 10 days after in my left leg and left arm because of constant heel hook and compression. I also tried some 8a's, and Foxy dyno where I was really close to do it.

Foxy dyno

Supernova 7c

 3. day it was raining all day. It's so boring in camp when it is raining, so most of the day we were eating or in the village on the wi-fi. I wanted to have rest day anyway because my biceps hurted a lot after Supernova.

4. day rain again :( But it stopped around noon and we went into the forest to find some dry boulders. I sent Dinos dont dyno's 7b/+ and flashed Intermezzo 7b+ (in guidebook 7c but everyone say it isn't). 
5. day raaain again, so we went to Chur for indoor boulder training.

Last day it was raining half of the day , and when it stopped I was trying Octopussy 8a , it went pretty good and I believe I have it next time I come there.

Wood chopping in camp, or at least trying to...

Magic Wood really fulfilled my expectations. I would like to come back any time.

In the evening we packed up and went to Zillertal. I don't know why, but probably to escape the bad weather and find some drier boulders.

SLEEPING IN THE BARN

We had in mind we will sleep in some free camp in Ginzling we heard of, but we came in the village at 12p.m. and we couldn't find the camp in the night, so we didnt know what to do now. My father sent me address of climbing legend Gerhard Hörhager, who bolted Moskito 8b in Paklenica, which I sent last summer and is one of my favorite routes I've climbed. He has some sort of climbing farm where you can sleep, so we wanted to sleep there. At around 1 a.m. we came to his house and called him on phone but he was probably sleeping so he didn't answer. We tried to find doorbell on his house, but he didn't have any. Oh man I can imagine how we looked like some burglars going around the house in the middle of the night with headlamps haha. As we couldn't contact him and it was already really late, we decided to put few tents in front of his barn and sleep there.

Imagine his face when he saw tents in front of his house next morning :P  But he understood us and offered us to train on his boulder because it was raining everywhere. What a legend!

Yeah, the boulder is in the barn

For the next night he also offered us to sleep in the barn, there were some matress in there and it was the most comfortable night on the trip.

EYC LANGENFELD

 

After that night I have left the group and my father came to pick me up to go to EYC. I have came 1 day before to see groups who were competing on first day. On last EYC in Argentiere I didn't climb good and I was 30th but now when I saw the boulder problems I was really excited to climb on them because they looked just as I like, and I knew it will be better. And it was good indeed, I climbed pretty good and got 6 tops out of 8,  and was really close to have 7. I ended 12. and with one more top I would be 6th and go to finals. Anyways, I was satisfied, but now I know I can do better! Next time I hope for finals.

 MY FIRST 8A

On the way home I stopped at Felbertauern to climb some more boulders as they were on our way.
I wanted to try some 8a because I didn't have enough time in Magic to sent one, so I warmed up in some easier boulders and found Schluck du Bruder 8a that I liked. It's nice traverse on slopy holds, looking similiar to Supernova, which I tried in Magic so I got the feeling for that style of boulders. It was going really good, and I sent it in about 45 minutes of trying. My hardest boulder for now :)
 

Schluck du Bruder 8a

   
 This was a really good trip for me,  experienced Magic Wood at last, and pushed my bouldering limits.

Until next time, bye :D